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Radio Kitchen

All About Onions

Ocdp, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Sometimes when I am peeling an onion, I play a little mental game: name one cuisine around the world that doesn’t depend on onions. The only one I can come up with, and I’m not certain about it, are the Innuits of the snowy north. Chef Jerry Pellegrino thinks it’s fair to say the onion is universally important.

Maryland is a happy growing ground for onions of all kinds. By far the most common are the yellow onions, which are round, medium sized and fairly mild in flavor. Often next to the yellows are the “Spanish” onions, which can be a little larger and milder. Closely related are the sweet yellow onions, like Vidalia and Walla Walla have recently become national favorites.

They are truly sweet and can add an extra dimension of flavor to any recipe. The sweet yellow onion is also the easiest to caramelize because of their high sugar levels.

White onions are closely related to yellow onions, although they tend to be larger, almost the size and color of a softball. Their flavor is a bit milder and less assertive, thus you can eat them raw in salads, or chopped up on a taco.

Red onions have a gorgeous purplish color and are very pungent. Although they can be eaten raw, they tend to be simmer down when cooked. But under any circumstance they do make their presence known.

Pearl onions are tiny little things that are most commonly used in soups and stews. The trick is to peel them. Try this. Get a pot of water boiling. Cut the two ends off the onions. Working in small batches, toss them in for about a minute. Fish them out and get them into ice cold water. When cool enough to handle, pinch one end and the skin will slide right off.

The Italian cippolini onions are distinctively shaped. They look like yellow onions that has been flattened out to look like a hassock. Actually, they can not only be yellow, but red and white as well. Whichever, they have a very mild sweet taste and are full of character.

Check this out to learn about the common types and uses of onions:
https://www.tasteofhome.com/collection/types-of-onions/

Here are some ideas from Jerry:

FRENCH ONION SOUP
6 large red or yellow onions (about 3 pounds)
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon sugar
salt
2 cloves garlic, minced
8 cups beef stock, chicken stock, or a combination of the two
½ cup dry vermouth or dry white wine
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, a few sprigs of fresh thyme, OR 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons brandy (optional)
8 slices (1 inch thick) French bread or baguette
1 1/2 cups grated Gruyere cheese
Sprinkling grated Parmesan cheese

Peel and thinly slice the onions from root to stem. There should be about 10 cups of sliced onions in total.

Begin caramelizing the onions with olive oil and butter: In a 5 to 6 quart thick-bottomed pot, heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil on medium heat. Add the onions and toss to coat with the olive oil.

Cook the onions, stirring often, until they have softened, about 15 to 20 minutes.

Increase the heat to medium high. Add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and the butter and cook, stirring often, until the onions start to brown, about 20 to 40 minutes. The amount of time will vary depending on your pot, stove, and onions.

Sprinkle with the sugar, finish caramelizing, and add garlic: Sprinkle with sugar (to help with the caramelization) and 1 teaspoon of salt. Continue to cook until the onions are well browned, about 10 to 15 more minutes.

Add the minced garlic and cook for a minute more.

Deglaze the pot with vermouth or wine: Add the wine or vermouth to the pot and scrape up the browned bits on the bottom and sides of the pot, deglazing the pot as you go.

Add the stock, bay leaves, and thyme. Bring to a simmer, cover the pot and lower the heat to maintain a low simmer. Cook for about 30 minutes.

Season and add the brandy: Season to taste with more salt and add freshly ground black pepper. Discard the bay leaves. Add brandy if using.

Toast the French bread slices: While the soup is simmering, line a sheet pan with parchment paper or foil and preheat the oven to 450°F with a rack in the upper third of the oven.

Brush both sides of the French bread or baguette slices lightly with olive oil (you'll end up using about a tablespoon and a half of olive oil for this).

Put in the oven and toast until lightly browned, about 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from oven.

Turn the toasts over and sprinkle with the grated Gruyere cheese and Parmesan. Return to oven when it's close to serving time and bake until the cheese is bubbly and lightly browned.

Serve: To serve, ladle soup into a bowl and transfer one cheesy toast onto the top of each bowl of soup.

Alternatively, you can use individual oven-proof bowls or one large casserole dish. Ladle the soup into the bowls or casserole dish. Cover with the toast and sprinkle with cheese. Put into the broiler for 10 minutes at 350° F, or until the cheese bubbles and is slightly browned.

Al Spoler, well known to WYPR listeners as the wine-loving co-host of "Cellar Notes" has had a long-standing parallel interest in cooking as well. Al has said, the moment he started getting serious about Sunday night dinners was the same moment he started getting serious about wine. Over the years, he has benefited greatly from being a member of the Cork and Fork Society of Baltimore, a gentlemen's dining club that serves black tie meals cooked by the members themselves who are some of Baltimore's most accomplished amateur cooks.
Executive Chef Jerry Pellegrino of Corks restaurant is fascinated by food and wine, and the way they work in harmony on the palate. His understanding of the two goes all the way to the molecular level, drawing on his advanced education in molecular biology. His cuisine is simple and surprising, pairing unexpected ingredients together to work with Corks' extensive wine offerings.